Colouring Lesson 2

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Colouring

Lesson 2.

Why is it important to ask about a client's allergies?

1. To discuss unrelated medical conditions.
2. To determine if they have had previous allergic reactions to coloring products.
3. To identify any other known allergies.
4. To sell allergy medication.

What does SHUD stand for in COSHH regulations?

1. Standard Handling and Usage Directives
2. Safety and Health Under Disaster
3. Storing, Handling, Using, Disposing
4. Salon Haircare and Upkeep Directions

What should you do before carrying out a hair color service?

1. Skip the consultation and tests.
2. Conduct a thorough consultation and relevant tests.
3. Consult with the client after the service.
4. Conduct a quick consultation without any tests.

What should you do when mixing colors and lighteners?

1. Mix them correctly in a well-ventilated area.
2. Mix them randomly.
3. Mix them in a closed room.
4. Mix them without following any instructions.

Objectives

• Be aware of how to complete an incompatibility test
• List the different colouring products used within the salon
• Explain the benefits of each colouring products
• Describe how each colouring product effects the hair structure.

What do you know about an Incompatibility test?

Incompatibility test

• Carried out before a chemical service.
• Used to check for metallic salts
• Take a small test cutting from the hair.
• Place it in a solution of 20mls liquid peroxide and 1ml of perm lotion.

What types of colouring products do we use?

Colouring Products

• Hydrogen Peroxide 
• Temporary colour
• Semi-Permanent
• Quasi colour
• Permanent
• Lighteners

What is hydrogen peroxide made from in hairdressing?

1. Water and carbon dioxide
2. Carbon and hydrogen
3. Nitrogen and oxygen
4. Hydrogen and oxygen

Hydrogen peroxide 

Also written as H202.

Colourless liquid made from....

Drag and drop:

Where does hydrogen peroxide sit on the pH scale?

What is the main purpose of hydrogen peroxide?

Purpose....

• Lighten the natural and artificial colour pigments 
• Develop the colour of Oxidation tints. 

• Oxidation - A chemical process that combines a substance with oxygen.

1.5% / 3% / 4%

6%

9%

12%

Weak solutions.

Used to neutralise and tone.

Used with Quasi colour.

Gives one shade of lift.

Used to cover 100% white hair.

Gives 2 shades of lift.

Gives 3 shades of lift.

Colouring Products

• Temporary
• Semi-permanent
• Quasi
• Permanent
• High-lift tint
• Lighteners 
• Toners

Find out:

• What each product is.
• How long it lasts.
• Benefits of using this type of product.
• Reasons not to use this product.

Temporary colour

• Generally used for whole head coverage, toning of colour and blending of white hair. They work well to replace lost tone in between colour services.
  
• Lasts 1 shampoo
• No levels of lift
• Uses NO hydrogen peroxide

Temporary colour

Reasons to use:

No commitment

Lasts one shampoo

Adds shine/tone

Neutralises unwanted tone

Chemical-free

Enhances current look

Introduction to colour

Quick fashion effect

No development time

Reasons not to use:

Only lasts one shampoo

No lift possible

Colour may be uneven or last longer on porous hair

 Temporary colours contain large colour molecules which sit on the outside of the cuticle and stain the hair shaft.

 

If the hair is porous and the cuticle is raised the colour might grab and coat the cortex, which can cause the colour to last longer or be uneven.

Semi-permanent colour

• Lasts 6-8 shampoos
• Uses no hydrogen peroxide
• 15-20 minute development 

Semi-permanent colours contain large and small colour molecules. 

The larger molecules coat and stain the outside of the cuticle, whereas the smaller molecules coat the inside of the cuticle and the outer layer of the cortex.

Quasi - permanent

• Lasts 12-24 shampoos
• Adds no levels of lift
• Uses a weak peroxide such as 3%
• 20 minute development time 
• Blends 50% of white hair.

They contain small and medium sized colour molecules. The small molecules coat the cuticle and lie in the cortex, the medium colour molecules penetrate into the cortex.

 

When the weak developer is mixed with the quasi-permanent colour is oxidises and swells the cuticle slightly, allowing the deposit of depth and tone into the cortex.

 

  

Toners

• Generally used for whole head coverage and neutralising un-wanted tones.
• No levels of lift.​
  
• Can be used with 6% but normally would use 3% or lower.​
  
• Develops in 20 minutes
  

Permanent colour​

• Used for partial colour, such as high/low lights, regrowth and full head colours.
• Provides 100% coverage on white hair
  
• Levels of lift depend of the natural depth of hair and peroxide strength. 
  
• Can lift up to 3 shades and can also darken and deposit tone​
  
• Can be used with 3%, 6%, 9% and 12%​
  
• Develops in 30-40 minutes
  

High-lift Tint

• Used for partial colour, such as balayage, highlights, regrowth and full head colours.
• Blends white hair but generally does not cover white hair
  
• Levels of lift depend of the natural depth of hair and peroxide strength. 
• Can lift up to 4-5 shades and can also darken and deposit tone​
  
• Can be used with 9% and 12%​
  
• Develops in 45-60 minutes
  

Permanent and high-lift colours are the most popular colours in the salon. 

They contain ammonia which opens the cuticle layer of the hair. Ammonia raises the pH of the hair to pH 10, so the hair swells and the active ingredients can penetrate the cortex.

Contain small colour molecules that expand and join together during the developing process. 

The peroxide when mixed with the ammonia from the colour, swells the cuticle and allows the small molecules to enter into the cortex. This allows the colour to deposit the required depth and tone.​

The products must be fully developed to allow the colour to reach its desired depth, deposit the tonal colours and neutralise. 

Colour molecules need time to swell and join into the cortex to become permanent.

Powder Lighteners

• Levels of lift depend of the natural depth of hair and peroxide strength. Can lift up to 6 shades. 
• Also removes tone.​
  
• Can be used with 6%, 9% and 12%​
  
• For on scalp techniques you would use 6% or lower​
  
• Develops in 30-45 minutes
  
• Generally used for partial colour, such as balayage and highlights. Blends in white hair only.
  

Lightening products enables clients to achieve the lightest blondes and lighten artificial colour in the hair.​

They affect the hair by oxidising the natural and artificial colour pigments in the cortex. 

Ammonia, when mixed with peroxide, releases oxygen. The oxidisation process causes the melanin to become oxy-melanin.

Melanin - The hairs natural pigment

How does peroxide affect the hair when mixed with ammonia?

1. Removes the larger colour molecules
2. Swells the cuticle and allows small colour molecules to enter the cortex
3. Prevents the colour from depositing depth and tone
4. Causes the cortex to become uneven

What does the weak developer do when mixed with the quasi-permanent colour?

1. Prevents the colour from depositing depth and tone
2. Oxidises and swells the cuticle slightly
3. Removes the small colour molecules
4. Causes the cortex to become uneven

Which type of hair colour contains small and medium-sized colour molecules?

1. Temporary colour
2. Semi-permanent colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Quasi-permanent colour

What happens when the hair is porous and the cuticle is raised?

1. The colour does not penetrate into the cortex
2. The colour might grab and coat the cortex
3. The colour stains the outside of the cuticle
4. The colour does not last longer

Which type of hair colour contains large colour molecules that sit on the outside of the cuticle?

1. Quasi-permanent colour
2. Temporary colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Semi-permanent colour

What are some dangers when using lighteners?

What should you make your client aware of before the colouring service?

• Cost
• Duration
• Expected outcome

What is the maximum number of shades that high-lift tint can lift?

1. 4-5 shades
2. 1-2 shades
3. 2-3 shades
4. 5-6 shades

Which type of color provides 100% coverage on white hair?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. High-lift Tint
4. Quasi-permanent color

What is the development time for semi-permanent color?

1. 10-15 minutes
2. 15-20 minutes
3. 30-40 minutes
4. 20-30 minutes

Which type of color lasts 6-8 shampoos?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. Toners
4. Quasi-permanent color

Write down 3 things you learned in this lesson.

Have students enter three things they learned in this lesson. With this they can indicate their own learning efficiency of this lesson.

Write down 2 things you want to know more about.

Here, students enter two things they would like to know more about. This not only increases involvement, but also gives them more ownership.

Ask 1 question about something you haven't quite understood yet.

The students indicate here (in question form) with which part of the material they still have difficulty. For the teacher, this not only provides insight into the extent to which the students understand/master the material, but also a good starting point for the next lesson.